Bakery


Boosting

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By DEVON GHOLAM, PhD, Contributing Editor

Fibers, fats, flours, and other ingredients deliver healthier appeal

Photo courtesy of: Wolferman’s Bakery, Inc.

Consumer interest in comfort foods, especially indulgent foods, is higher than ever. Yet the forces driving that interest are in conjunction with an equally high awareness of the importance of nutrition to health. The two trends need not be in conflict. Several strategies already are firmly in place for formulating better-for-you baked goods.

The ability to deliver satisfying comfort treats with healthful ingredients is getting ample play in baking. Significant trends already in this category include sugar reduction via newly available sweeteners, the addition of prebiotic fiber-containing ingredients, the adoption of functional flours and starches, a switch to natural colors (including nutraceutical ones) and healthier fats, and even the use of baked goods to provide bioactive and probiotic boosts.

POWER FLOUR

When it comes to the emerging “have your cake and benefit from it too” paradigm, many product developers are starting from the base ingredients, the flours and starches that make up the bulk of most baked goods. Currently filling the bill for this healthy baking approach are flours made from legumes (pulses), seeds, roots, ancient grains, and pseudocereals. These are excellent options to boost fiber and protein in baked goods, and they also contribute healthier fats, minerals, and certain vitamins.

Consumption of these ingredients is associated with reduced risk of cardiovascular disease and diabetes. Additionally, they improve satiety and decrease the glycemic index of food formulations. Available ingredient options include whole flours as well as fiber- and protein-rich powders. The addition rate of such ingredients depends on the source of the ingredient and the final formulation.

Cakelets-Tate-And-Lyle

With one-to-one drop-in ability and sucrose-like performance at 1/10 the calories, allulose is getting serious attention from better-for-you bakers. Photo courtesy of: Tate & Lyle, Ltd.

Generally, high inclusion rates disrupt the gluten network and change dough rheology. However, at optimized usage levels, legume and pseudocereal ingredients provide substantial nutritional benefits with minimal changes in sensory attributes. Many of these ingredients, especially flours from legumes, roots, and tubers, also are pursued as ingredients perfect for gluten-free, allergen-free (or low-allergenic), and non-GMO baked goods. They exhibit both good functional behavior and high nutritional value.

Ingredients sourced from soybeans, chickpeas, amaranth, quinoa, chia, sorghum, and others have proved useful in gluten-free formulations like bread, biscuits, and cakes. Acorn meal was recently studied and utilized successfully in gluten-free bread formulation, although loaf volume decreased and crumb hardness increased.

A recent study on traditional Portuguese “broa” bread evaluated the inclusion of pea, chickpea, lentil, and faba bean flours. The use of chickpea flour resulted in a sensory analysis most similar to a control flour, but with a higher final protein content. Apulian black chickpea (native to the Apulia region in southern Italy) also has been assessed in bakery products. Addition of this flour resulted in darker and harder products with decreased volume, but increased fiber and protein content and antioxidant activity.

THE SKINNY ON FAT

Fats serve several important functions in bakery formulations. Reducing and replacing solid fats in baked goods can be challenging as they are important for the texture and structure of final products. The good news is, oil and fat technology has improved dramatically in recent years, as have the options for maintaining organoleptic attributes while dropping fat calories.

For example, using high-oleic sunflower oil in cookies and croissants, whole chia flour in poundcake, and chia mucilage gel in cakes all improve upon previous methods in which bulking agents, gums, and starches were used. Meanwhile, solid and flaked shortenings with the healthful attributes of liquid oils now are readily available.

Korean researchers studied the use of an oleogel made from grapeseed oil and candelilla wax to replace shortening in muffins. The use of oleogels resulted in firmer, springier muffins and a significantly lower saturated to unsaturated fat ratio, due to the high unsaturated fat content of grape seed oil.

Shortening in muffins was successfully able to be replaced up to 25% with the oleogel, resulting in muffins with similar quality to the full shortening control. The same group of researchers found similar results replacing 25% of shortening in cakes with an oleogel comprised of canola oil and carnauba wax.

Crackers-Beneo-Inc

Functional prebiotic fibers, such as inulin, are enhancing baked goods targeting healthful indulgence. Photo courtesy of: Beneo, Inc.

Feeling Spent

Brewer’s spent grain (BSG) is the most plentiful waste product from brewing and contains significant quantities of both protein and fiber. Researchers in Italy showed that while the addition of BSG to bread, breadstick, and pizza dough formulations increased protein and fiber content as expected. However, it also changed dough rheology, resulting in higher water absorption and a decrease in dough strength, stability, and development time. A small sensory study showed that enrichment with 5% BSG had the highest overall acceptability.

Oil seed mucilages, such as those from chia or flaxseed, also can be used as fat replacers. These contain water-soluble polysaccharides and have similar functional properties to guar gum. Oil seeds as a whole ingredient also provide considerable nutritional content via protein, fiber, and minerals.

One of the more interesting developments in fat technology, however, was last year’s launch of a fat replacer developed by university scientists as a GMO-free modified plant-based oil —that helps manufacturers dramatically lower calories without compromising product taste, texture, or functionality.

The new fat is an esterified propoxylated glycerol (EPG) that breaks up fat molecules into their glycerin and fatty acid components and then reconnects them with a food-grade propoxyl connector. The result is more than a 90% reduction in fat calories, with a neutral flavor and with no changes to the organoleptic characteristics of the end product. Best of all, unlike previous modified fat molecules, the gluten-free, allergen-free, trans fat-free, vegan, and kosher fat does not cause gastrointestinal side effects.

Lemony-Pound-Cake-AEB

Eggs are not only fundamental to baking, they’re fundamental to healthy baking, boasting high protein and unmatched performance. Photo courtesy of: American Egg Board

LET IT FERMENT

Fermentation technology in bakery products has potential beyond leavening and flavor. Sourdough fermentation can be used as a novel approach to sugar reduction in baked goods. Some lactic acid bacteria (LAB) strains produce mannitol, and Candida milleri, a strain of yeast, can transform xylose into the sugar alcohol xylitol. LAB and yeasts also produce exopolysaccharides that can act as a bulking agent and assist with satisfactory product texture. Also, of interest, the use of fructophilic LAB can reduce FODMAPs in wheat-based bakery products, compared to conventional sourdough cultures.

The fermentation process also can be used on cereal byproducts, such as germ and bran from wheat and rice processing. Fermentation helps increase the bioavailability of vitamins and minerals, improves protein digestibility, inactivates anti-nutritional factors, and is even believed to create new bioactive compounds with antimicrobial, antitumor, and antioxidant properties.

Sourdough fermentation also shows promise in improving the quality of legumes and pseudo-cereal based ingredients. Similar to cereal byproducts, the fermentation of legumes improves bioavailability of fibers and phenolic compounds and improves protein digestibility, too.

Fig-And-Sweet-Potato-Scone-AAK

One of the biggest trends in breads is allowing the germination of the grains or seeds prior to drying and milling. Flours from these so-called “sprouted grains” are not only whole grains, replete with the extra vitamins, minerals, and fiber, but have half the gluten and about 25% less carbohydrate than traditional flour. Flours from a combination of multiple sprouted grains and seeds can also provide a balanced and complete complement of amino acids.

SATISFYING THE SWEET TOOTH

Although sugar reduction has been well established in bakery items, there are two ingredients that have gained recent interest—erythritol, a polyol, and allulose, a rare sugar. Both naturally occur in fruits in small quantities.

Erythritol is 60-80% as sweet as sucrose, and has only 0.24 kcals/g. It exhibits antioxidant properties and, unlike many other polyols, does not cause gastric issues when consumed in appropriate quantities. Erythritol has a high production cost because it cannot be synthesized, but work has been done to improve productivity and yield of fermentations.

Fat technology has advanced to where solid shortenings have the nutrition profile and function of unsaturated fats. Photo courtesy of: AAK, Inc.

Allulose, a sugar found naturally in raisins, beets, figs, jackfruit, corn, and wheat, is fast becoming a preferred sucrose replacer in many products. Since becoming GRAS approved (at levels of up to 30g/day) in 2012, and as declining production costs dropped its price point below erythritol, this epimer of fructose has gained considerable attention, especially from bakers.

While much more hygroscopic than sucrose, allulose has a browning capacity slightly better than sucrose or glucose. It also affords good crumb structure, although a lower ability to crystallize compared to sucrose. It provides excellent shelf life, and can be used as a 1:1 replacement to provide the bulk that sucrose does to formulations, yet at only 0.2 to 0.4 kcal/g compared to 4 kcal/g for sucrose, glucose, or fructose.

Chocolate-Muffins-Cargill-Inc

Ingredient technology is bringing novel sources of gluten-free, non-GMO flours into baking, without sacrificing texture and flavor. Photo courtesy of: Cargill, Inc.

Although allulose is ranked as being 70% as sweet as sucrose, its fructose-like flavor profile can support fruit, chocolate, and vanilla flavors in such a manner that added sweetness might not be required. However, some formulators and ingredient suppliers blend allulose with stevia or monkfruit to boost sweetness. It is available in both powder and liquid forms, and its clean sweetness requires no maskers.

BENEFICIAL BYPRODUCTS

Researchers are finding creative ways to upcycle the byproducts of fruit and vegetable processing in order to help reduce waste streams and improve food manufacturing sustainability. Such ingredients typically are natural sources of antioxidants, are rich in fiber, and can serve as value-added ingredients for the baking industry.

Grape byproducts from wine making are one such example. Grape fiber comprises 50-75% of dry matter, with a combination of soluble fiber containing mostly pectins, and insoluble fiber content consisting of cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin. Additionally, grape byproducts potentially have antimicrobial activity. Researchers at Oregon State University used wine grape pomace successfully in bread and muffins without significant differences in consumer acceptability. Inclusion rate of grape byproducts must be optimized for each formulation, as too much can change dough rheology, color, flavor, and final acceptability.

Blueberry-Muffin-TIC

Native starches and natural gums are easy ways to bring clean-label goodness to baked goodies. Photo courtesy of: TIC Gums, Inc.

Olive pomace, the byproduct from olive oil extraction, also presents a good source of fiber and phenolic compounds. In addition, the pomace still is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. This novel ingredient has been used with great success in bread and biscuit formulations, lowering glycemic index and improving fiber content and antioxidant activity. Depending on how much is used, there can be negative impact on color and flavor.

Yogurt acid whey, a byproduct of Greek-style yogurt production, can improve the shelf life of baked goods. It can also shorteningredient declarations by partially or completely replacing sugar, salt, acids, additives, preservatives, and other dairy ingredients and. Researchers at Cornell University tested yogurt acid whey in pizza and pancake formulations. With alterations to the formula, it was possible to achieve a test product on par with commercial products.

Defatted sunflower seed flour, made from the byproduct of sunflower oil extraction, can be used to boost the protein content and antioxidant capacity of baked goods. A recent study proved the viability of this concept in biscuits. However, moderation in use is recommended, as high inclusion rates will have a negative impact on color and firmness.

A study published last year investigated the use of debittered orange fiber produced from the byproduct of orange juice manufacturing as a fat replacement in brioche. Replacing as much as 70% of the fat with the orange fiber in formulation resulted in a product with increased fiber and protein content yet did not adversely affect stability.

The baker’s ingredient toolkit has expanded impressively in the past few years, especially when it comes to creating healthful indulgences and irresistible treats. Processors can take advantage of ingredient technicians skilled in reformulating and even building better baked goods from scratch. PF

Devon Gholam, PhD, received her doctorate in food science from Purdue University. She is a food scientist with extensive experience in product development and research, including food product design, formulation/reformulation, sensory methodology, statistical analysis, experimental design, and analytical techniques such as HPLC, GC, and FTIR. She has worked for such food and ingredient companies as Roquette America, Inc., Ganeden Biotech, Inc., and Kellogg Co. In addition to product consultation, she also provides technical support, communications, presentations, white papers, and other food and ingredient marketing tools. Reach her at dld@devonlynndurkee.com.

APRIL 2021

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